‘Food’ Posts:

We All Scream for Goat Milk

Walter Youngblood of King Leche Cremes

Summer seems to suit Walter Youngblood handsomely. I meet him outside the Central Park Zoo and he is smiling and friendly despite the heat, wearing a highlighter green T-shirt, fedora, pinstriped pants, and a red cooler slung over his shoulder. I look to the cooler and know immediately what populates it: King Leche Cremes, the goat milk ice cream pops that Walter first debuted this summer.

Although the creation of King Leche Cremes marks Walter’s first foray into food startup entrepreneurship, he is no stranger to the New York City food world. Walter has been waiting tables for the better part of the twenty years he’s been living in the city, serving food for the likes of Wiley Defresne at WD-50, for Rick Bayless at Bar Americaine and, most recently, at the Good Fork in Red Hook, Brooklyn. Walter lives in East Harlem but is a native of Kansas City, where he can trace the origin of his love of ice cream to his large Missourian family. “I can taste it right in the front of my mouth,” he waxes nostalgic. “I can taste the cheap vanilla” of the ice cream his aunt would make for family gatherings. Read More

By Laura Bult on September 11th, 2012

Baked in a Pie

Chatting with the Elsen sisters of Four & Twenty Blackbirds

On a calm Tuesday evening, I stroll into Four & Twenty Blackbirds. It’s 6:30 p.m. and the Brooklyn pie shop closes in half an hour; only two customers are left clicking on their computers and scraping up their last crumbs. A slight breeze comes through the window, gently rustling the sheer white curtains. Some members of the staff tidy up the shop while others knead new batches of pie dough.  Four & Twenty Blackbirds is off the beaten path, and although it’s located on Gowanus’ bustling 3rd Avenue, I feel like I’m in the countryside. The painted tin walls and circulating ceiling fans lend the space a touch of charm, but the decor is simple enough that it doesn’t seem over thought.

Emily Elsen, who owns the shop with her younger sister Melissa, arrives to meet me–eager to talk about pie and its complexities. To make a really good, fresh pie, one has to consider the seasonal ingredients available, the flavor pairings in the filling, and what type of crust best suits the pie filling–both in ingredients and in form. Read More

By Alyssa Pagano on May 17th, 2012

User Friendly

Kari Morris on syrup purveyor Morris Kitchen

On her day off, Kari Morris greets me at the entry to Morris Kitchen’s commercial kitchen in Williamsburg, donning a blue bandana to keep her hair back and an apron over her street clothes.

It’s easy to imagine Morris Kitchen as a brand that has an entire factory behind it–you can find the purveyor of fine syrups in your neighborhood grocery, Dean & Deluca, and even the Ace Hotel in New York. However, Kari’s 9-to-5 is spent in one room with high ceilings, whitewashed walls, and tools of the trade. A kettle the size of several stacked, round hat boxes takes up a corner.

Bins for “juicer gloves” and label stickers crowd shelves and a gigantic parachute full of packing peanuts hangs from the ceiling. Squat, brown 8-ounce bottles sit in boxes and cover metal tables in the laboratory-like setting that Kari has constructed for Morris Kitchen. A signature of the brand, each bottle contains one of three handmade syrups–Ginger, Boiled Apple Cider, or Preserved Lemon. Read More

By Samantha Weiss on March 23rd, 2012

Breaking Bread

with Bakeri's Nina Brondmo

Terrific was hungry for more, so we decided to extend our coverage of local makers and doers. It’s our pleasure to introduce the new Food column, where we’ll be talking to local chefs, restauranteurs, and other noteworthy conversationalists. Enjoy!

Shortly before 8 a.m., while slightly spellbound by a trapezoidal case of fresh pastries, Bakeri’s Nina Brondmo rushes past me toward an oven. She wants to talk while she prepares more brioches.

“Brioche is the only bread we make with egg and butter,” Nina informs me. She pulls trays of the precariously balanced viennoiserie from the bakery’s oven. Each one glows as she removes it from its individual, fluted tin.

Bakeri – Norwegian for ‘bakery’ – is the brainchild of Brondmo, who also owns the nearby Williamsburg staple Sweetwater Restaurant with her husband, Pablo. Together they managed Sweetwater for close to five years, until Nina decided to open Bakeri in 2009. Read More

By Samantha Weiss on February 9th, 2012